RomRaider

Moved to the Tuning Discussion due to possible forum rules violation.

Thread here:
https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=15930

Thank you post:
Just want to thank this community, the creators and researchers. I understand it is hard to keep going when all the main contributors get hired and not allowed to continue.
Yet people of this community pick it up and keep going. It is amazing, especially given social obscurity of Tuning and ECU reverse engineering. Thanks, merchgod, NSFW, dschultz, td-d and jon7009, Artizle, ride5000, Carbibbles, Airboy, vgi, and whoever I have forgotten.

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How is that G-Plus radiator? Their silicone hoses are decent, and not too expensive. Can you throw me any pics?

to go with a 19t compressor wheel, I would suggest a high flow 9 blade exhaust turbine. The stock TD04L turbine is great for low spool up but is restrictive in the top end.

at 86F manifold air charge temp I can push 180 g/s by 3900 rpm (2.74 g/rev) and LOAD maintains for a bit but then drops, while mass air flow increases to 237 g/s @ 6000 rpm, and then tapering. While having a lower manifold air charge temp would increase load and mass air flow, it's best to relate on a standard temp, like 30C/86F. That's with a decent front mount, 2.5" turbo inlet, fully catless/3" DP, and upgraded fueling, boost control, etc.

What you want to do with the MAF, is take all the fueling data and throw it out on a plot graph and figure out the third order polyomial of the MAF v over MAF g/s after correction, and then plot out that polynomial.

As for "cool guy mods" do the voltage divider trick with a diode in the "S10" fuse spot. If you don't know about that one, read up on it. What you ideally want to do is get the system voltage bumped up to a consistent 14v. The outback alternator is one of the best electrical upgrades for EJ engines. 130A capable, almost twice the amperage of a stock bugeye alternator.

I'll take a look at the ROM later when I have time.

So far everything has been excellent. I've just had to slightly bend fan tabs.
Do you want the pics on the car? It's not that visible lol.
UPD: Found out that I DID take some pictures during install.
All attached.
Silicone inlet also is awesome, no cavitation as far as I could tell, I've cut it to fit perfect using piston ring tool and safety knife. I removed all brand names with a sandpaper though. Silicone hoses I actually got from some random seller(did not realize yet I could take the branding off, and they were glossy black, which is what I wanted), they were good, had extra 2 that are not used on GDA/B. Cut them a bit and removed some plastic holders replacing them with pretty looking zip ties.


Awesome, I will add it to my list. However this is SUCH distant future, it might as well be a dream. I got to finish painting the hood at some point, get STi struts and springs, 15" wheels and good tires to go with, ID1050s, maybe finally put on my STi TMIC, get a bucket seat(I am 6'4").


Yeah I don't think I got to 2.74 anywhere at that range... I do have everything from your list besides FMIC. Honestly I do not want to use FMIC because of spooling issues and already loaded PS plus tranny coolers in front... I also do not have IAT post IC. Probably should think about it.


Okay, you did lose me at "third order polyomial". ))
I did try couple of differnet things in VGIs tool... When I was trying to get my numbers under 1% xD
I will look that up, whatever that means(multiaaxis something??) and figure it out though.

Thank you sir! I will definitely do that. I was actually wondering about that.
I got very lucky while scrounging for MAF, parts and bolts on wrecking yard. 2009 Outback but the alternator was 2017! According to the llittle paper on it and looked brand new.
I did ground mod before that and it did not change anything. This alternator gets hot and has very little belt clearance, but I DEFINITELY have no power issues, and dimming light are 96% gone.


Best news since last month!

"spooling issues"

otherwise known as lazy ramping, continuous/burst turbodynamics. this is not related to the intercooler, and is the stock wastegate duty control system of 16-bit ECUs.

I guarantee you with a front mount and PID (proportional/integral) turbodynamics, with min/max tables, that you'll love a front mount and have much-much better response from the turbo overall from going PID, and the lag is barely perceptible.

Carberry is what you want either way.

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Thank you post:
Just want to thank this community, the creators and researchers. I understand it is hard to keep going when all the main contributors get hired and not allowed to continue.
Yet people of this community pick it up and keep going. It is amazing, especially given social obscurity of Tuning and ECU reverse engineering. Thanks, merchgod, NSFW, dschultz, td-d and jon7009, Artizle, ride5000, Carbibbles, Airboy, vgi, and whoever I have forgotten.

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if you aren't using a sensor input such as TGV (left/right) or MAF volts, or Rear O2, you can run your 0-5v analog signal from the wideband controller into one of those, change the logging definition to re-interpret the data, and then you can log the wideband as a normal PID logging parameter, at SSM2 k-line rate.

I've found the alternator mod instructions, will get that done! Also thinking now about painting, and tapping my old STi IC for IAT.
Also might do the Rear 02 Sensor trick.
I just don't like the idea of splicing into stock wiring... And I don't want to bring it from under the car, so I'll probably have to look at the wiring and do it from inside the car.
Also I might look for a bolt to secure the Rear 02 Sensor welded bung. I don't like the idea of angled piece of metal with wires hanging down there when I drive through the field. Any advice?
As well as I need more convincing on FMIC.
Let alone STi TMIC because I am still not sure I want to redo my splitter and still have more heatsoak than stock 02 TMIC.