RomRaider

Here is my stage 2 5eat base map. 2005 LGT limited. Pretty safe map, if anybody has any ideas on how to sqeeze a little more performance, please let me know. This map was made fairly conservative for winter fuel, I have constant access to 93oct gas, and frequently use octane booster for that little bit more "pop". Only mods are catless UP/DP K&N filter and map.

PLEASE NOTE: A user from legacygt.com who lives near me helped me create this map. If this was based off another tuners map, I don't know and I apologize in advance. I don't think that this is the case, however, as we tweaked it ourselves.

There are several areas that can be improved upon to get more power. Please PM me for more info.

Why not post your tips? Is that not the purpose of this website?

I'll Do what I can. I own a shop called Bushido Automotive. We are currently located in San Antonio, TX. But we are relocating to the Fort Lewis Washington Area. Be cause I tune cars for money I don't want to give away all my tips, but like I said. I'll do what I can.

First off. Only adjust the Target Boost A map. Leave the B Map Alone. Second Move the boost target down to say 15.5. The stock turbo will not hold up to 17psi for very long. It will eventualy blow an oil seal.

You have the boost control disable set to 0.35 which is good because it will switch to the failsafe map at the same time as the fuel and timing switch over. But you need to change the re-enable to a lower setting such as 0.45. That way if your IAM goes back up to an acceptable level your boost will also come back.

You need to pull fuel in several areas and add timing in several areas.

Take a Good Look at the factory Timing advance map. There are areas of that map that are zero'd out for a reson. Leave those area's zero'd. Only use higher values in the same area's the factory does, and don't just use a blanket advance for that entire portion of the advance map.

Try using a differant AVCS Map. I'll see if I can get a screen shot and post one for you.

Changing A and B is irrelevent. It shouldn't matter. It certainly will not hurt to put your tuned map in all available map locations. RomRaider also hides unused maps (like automatic transmission maps for manual transmission cars). So far with the investigations on this issue it appears the B maps are never used anyway. The slider factor that picks which map is used seems to always stay zero'd so only A is used.

There has been quite a bit of discussion on whether to flatten the KC maps or not. For the most part your goal should be to always see IAM at 1.0 anyway. I personally do not flatten on my own car, but I see no reason why it would be a problem. It makes analyzing logs much easier to flatten the KC map. Perhaps this is irrelevent now that we can log Feedback Knock Correction (FBKC) with RomRaider... I agree in general there is a purpose behind the shape. It is deeper where timing falls off the fastest (like where in the base timing map two adjacent points have a gap >5 degrees), and obviously across high load areas.

The only place where I think setting the timing advance map to non-zero is bad would be at loads under 1.0. You do not want the car to pull timing in idle, cruise, and high RPM free-rev areas because these areas are not knock prone anyway, even on crappy gas, and you'll possibly cause boost spike issues.

If IAM were to drop to something like 0.50 it could cause drivability issues where KC goes from 0 to +6 or +9 or whatever you've got it set to. More on that in a second...

The boost enable/disable thing is kinda moot. If your IAM drops to .35, something is seriously wrong (i.e. you filled up with 87 oct) and should be immediately investigated. You should not just drive it around and see if the IAM goes back up to .45, which is still very unhealthy. Hell, set the reenable to 1.0, or even higher so that if IAM drops to .35 boost control will not reenable at all.

This is why we have a forum, so advice gets vetted by the community. We're here to share information and critique each others maps and even each others' advice. You're more than welcome to participate, but I'm weary seeing this "PM me" stuff because this kinda breaks the cycle and defeats the purpose of what we're doing.

I completly understand about the pm stuff.

The reason you do not flatten the Timing Advance Map is that you are not taking advantage of how the ecu and engine work together. If you have an area of the map that can't take as much timing advance then your IAM will not use as much of the advance map because it will pull the IAM back.

IAM Will also drop because of heat. When you live in a hot climate like San Antonio where we see 100+ temps, your ECU may Pull timing and Lower the IAM. As Temps drop your IAM will go back up.

Here try this map.

I'm looking for a good safe map. Freon what do you think of mr. coots map?
Mr. Coots is this map the same as smitty's 05 legacy gt auto, up and down pipe, k&n filter?
Thanks alot I have learned alot today.
Dan

On a properly tuned LGT, I have NEVER seen IAM drop due to increased temperature. I have tuned LGTs in SoCal and New Mexico and they do not experience IAM dropping. I have only seen IAM drop on a properly tuned LGT when 87 octane gas was used.

There is a timing by IAT compensation table that takes care of higher temperatures.