RomRaider

I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I installed the Nissan maf WITH A 2.76" ID housing using Nissan rev 3 scale. I did some logging in open loop. I checked my fuel adaptions and they read around +5 for both banks. Now for the part I need help with for correction of the adaptions should I fine tune the maf scale? I read on here for scaling you need to log afr, rpm and maf v. I downloaded mafscaler v2.5.1, but I wasn't able to get it to work at all. I then tried to remove the adaptions by rescaling my fuel table using pazi88's method, But that did basically nothing. I'm sure I'm missing something easy, but any help would be great.
M52B28
M50 manifold
nissans7000 maf
m54b30 intake, m50nv on exhuast.
stock injectors.

Ok. Here is the scalar. Tested and working so that it matches stock MAF:

Engine made 248hp with that (plus s52cams, BBTB, headers, m50 intake and tune)
https://www.instagram.com/p/B0JBy95FT8m ... _copy_link

Thank you as always for sharing your stuff Pazi.

I must say this may be my next test, because the nissan maf in 3.5 is trash at lower air flow when crusing in the city for example, and even at full load, reading are erratic.

When are the peak torque and peak hp on that particular b28 ? Are these wheel numbers or flywheel ?

Here is the graph:

It's calculated crank hp. Really happy how flat and linear the graphs are. Normally s52 cams easily lead to non linear torque curve. But there was something different on timing of these cams, because engine wanted the vanos switching point to be 5500rpm. When ut's normally closer to 4000rpm.

The maf is really on the limit at measuring air at idle. Lowest it measures is abou 17kg/h when m52b28 normally consumes 15kg/h at warm idle. Luckily lambda integrators can compensate that so it works just.

.

I've been tinkering with this a bit - here's what I've done. Please give me some feedback on where to go next.. really scratching my head here.

1. Bought 350z MAF(nissan genuine part - not knockoff) with provided part number by ba114. Also bought a 2.76" ID maf housing and placed the nissan slot maf inside with the element facing the air intake path.
2. Followed a32guy's wiring instructions outlined earlier in this post (thanks!) -
a. red to pin 2 (tested at 12v near the connector - seems proper)
b. black & brown twisted together then twisted with pin 3 (is this the proper way to 'bridge'? Tested multimeter connected to this wire and pin 2 and got 12v - so seems the ground is good)
c. pin 4 to yellow (attempting to get running correctly without resistor then adding it in) This is where my problem lies - it is testing at .1v consistently via multimeter and logger and is not changing.
3. I used ba114's spreadsheet and base (nissan tuned v3) maf scalars to flash full map at 2048kg MAF mode and verified that it flashed correctly by reading after flashing - both partial and full show correct tune

So... what could cause me to only get .1v constantly on the signal wire? How can my MAF load be calculated and seemingly work correctly if the MAF isn't sending a correct signal to the DME?

It seems to run just fine - but I can't figure out why the signal voltage is unchanging while the load is changing correctly.



tl;dr
MAF load is reading correctly - signal voltage is static at .1V
Ideas?

You have some signal/groundwire connected wrong. That's why you get those weird results. But with nissan MAFs I can't help. I try to stay away from those...

Thanks for the recommendation - I'll play with that a bit and see and update my post. What MAF do you recommend? I see all the good work you've done on this forum and trust your judgement

So I've played with it a bit - following the wiring diagrams given for the nissan part to the T. There's 2 different ones I tried - but it didn't work out.
I think the ebay pigtail I purchased may not be making a good connection to the sensor - I ordered a different OE replacement one to try. The ebay pigtail wasn't 'clicking in' to the connector as it should have. Think this may have been my issue all along...


Edit - figured it out. Had the wires hooked up from a different perspective from the diagrams... all is working now.

As for erratic readings on slot style MAF, try installing a honeycomb air straightener at the input of your MAF tube or get a new housing with a pre-fitted straightener.

I got a 3” housing with pre-fitted honeycomb air straightener and it GREATLY improved my readings.

There’s tons of info on the web if you feel like reading more about this.

Hope this helps!

I believe this is directed toward me,
Yes I am aware of this honeycomb, but my research only led me to sellers in the US that prices with shipping is stupid high.
Edit : I just checked again and now one seller is in europe but also with prices as expensive as a damn maf

It's worth the investment!

Interesting comparison Pazi..

I just finished cleaning up the tune on my E36, with Schrick 264 cams... Do you emulate, or flash tune?





Thanks,

James

Flash tuning of course

We are lucky enough to have our own 4 wheel drive eddy braked dyno, and plenty of flash tools past and present. I find that for ms41, on these, you can really learn a lot when emulating the ECU and seeing the changes made in real time.



Is the car you posted above your own, or a customers?

I’m very interested in getting some more info on what MAF sensor you use, as I’m currently running a Euro M3 “806” MAF, with no resistors and hit 4.998v at around 6000rpm. This is just about acceptable for the car as it is now, but with another near 20% capacity when I put the 3.3 motor in, it will become an issue!

Thanks

James