RomRaider

Hi! Newbie here exploring the world of ECU tinning!

I've been searching around everywhere but I can't find the answers to my questions so I've decided to go ahead and post them here.

First of all, I have a 1995 328i that was sold in Japan (JDM unit). It has several differences in configuration hence my confusion. Like for one(as per what I found online) since it's an EU based car, it has no check engine light?

So here are my questions if anyone is willing to chime in.



1. Is it normal to have no O2 sensors?

In Real OEM, number 16 is grayed out, leaving us with 15, which is just a temperature sensor. (Images Attached)

The car still has a stock exhaust and these are the only sensors I can find on it.

The O2 heater relay also does not exist in the fuse box area.

So the car seems to be running in open loop all the time and is running rich. My gas consumption is horrible compared to other E36/46 I've driven.

I'm planning to get a Wideband to manually tweak the open loop tune in order to get better fuel economy.





2. Is it still safe to increase timing? Or should I actually pull some timing?

I've been planning to tune my ignition tables but the ECU doesn't not record anything in the knock adaptation tables. It's all zero no matter what I do.

So I decided to manually log knock in RomRaider.

Note:
I am running 95 Octane Fuel on the stock Ignition Tables
M50 Manifold
UUC Lightened Flywheel
Aftermarket cone filter just by the MAF

I did a an outing in a race track and this is the data I got (Attached below is the romraider log file).

There seems to be a lot of knock? Though I do not feel nor hear it from the driver seat.

And here is a table showing the minimum ignition adjustment (in this came maximum ignition retard) that happened on a particular cell. (Attached below)

Are these false knocks? Can I increase timing? Or should I pull timing?


Thanks!

Can u share full read please ? im too have national version of japan. 1995/09 328i with ms41.0 but mine came with before cat two o2 sensor and after cat 2 exhaust temp sensors like yours.

there is many things that can cause false knock signals. single mass flywheel is one of them, also worn out engine trans mounts, exhaust touching body or anything loose.. if all those check out ok, then maybe try to relax the knock tables (at ur own risk). also, verify that afr is not too lean. also carbon deposits in combustion chamber can cause knock, do a anticarbon treatment. if everything is mechanically sound, only then try to increase ign timing. here also i would run 98 octan minimum.