RomRaider

cars givin me some crap. broke the 5mt, put a new one in, still breaking in a new clutch too. But at around 4k rpm and low load -10 to -5 inhg i been getting misfires and leaning out. Ive had some trouble lately with dirty plugs on coil packs, i just need to log it i guess

misfires was from losoe injector plugs. the female pin was ebat like a $5 hooker and not making good contact.

Moving on, I put some 93 octane in it for the first time ever yesterday (came out to e31). Not real happy with it. Feels like it needs way more timing, i was pretty conservative on the base map. The car takes like 25% throttle to cruise, i can feel it just not making power. I think more timing should help. The AFR's are much leaner than the target map so i guess the VE table for pump gas will be a good bit different then the e85 table. mostly in the 0 to low boost areas. Its in the 14's until i get into 10+psi and still only drops to 12:1. Not sure what CL corrections are since my laptops broken.

just pulled my rom off the ecu for the first time since its reconstructive surgery

going to try and flash this rom. I been having trouble on startup. Its fires then immediately stalls and takes lots of cranking to get it running, then it takes a while yet to even get up to idle. I compared cranking and warmup tables to a v8 ej207 and mine seems really high. So i pretty much to the 207 values and cut in half for e10 and then 1.5x for e85. I cant rememebr why my values were so whacked but hte car started warmed up and ran fine on those last year, but not this year.

I started to think maybe i got a 12v signal for the flexconverter from one of those feeds that shuts off on cranking but i logged it cranking and the ethanol signal never blacked out so i dunno.

ya that didnt work at all. Had to flash back to the old rom. Not sure why it wont start right. Injectors are over twice the size of stock, running more pressure and it still takes like 3 times more pulse to get it to fire

stay tuned, gimme a little bit and I'll have a suggestion and a couple extra things

starting with RPMxECT and base pulse width tables for pump gas that I've been using on the vehicles I've helped tune
factored for injector size difference
factored for engine displacement difference

since cranking isn't effected by global compensation, we rely on blending between map 1 and map 2 tables depending on the ethanol content, since 85% or greater is map 2, and 0% to 85% content is a linear translation, so is the difference in cranking. map 2 should represent map 1 + 50% extra.

If this goes well for you, I've got another set of fueling strategies for you to try.

thanks, your right in the middle of what barely works and what wasnt working at all. Im wondering now if its more to do with my voltage latencies. The batteries been low and while cranking, my volt gauge is showing in the low 9's

hey, at least it's trying to turn over and run lol
that's pretty low for voltage

what injectors are they?

decapped dark blues, got a flow chart for 950cc at 3bar, i run them at 4 bar. Looking for some ID 1200/1300's

this optima batteries weird as hell. I cna turn key on and it registers like 7 volts on the guage, they as i crank it works its way up into the 10's. But besides that, the engine seems to fire first crank and then it stalls. Im not sure where the computer switched over from cranking to warm up fueling. Id guess when the second key is turned back from crank. Starting to think i need more "min primary base enrichment initial start 2a/b". After 3 or 4 tries it starts and sputters then after about 5 seconds smoothes out and runs normal

charged the battery up to 12.5 votls, starts much better, almost instantly now lol. Just got to finish tweaking my warmup stuff i never finished. My 100-120ish degree tipin is super lean

Hey terryjr!

What transmission did you break and what replacement did you use? Did it break with blast plates installed? What exactly was broken?

Asking because it seems my bugeye wrx is in need of new transmission. It grenaded in the middle of a 3rd gear WOT at "only" 300whp/300ftlb. http://youtu.be/HU6uXAZI2MM?t=75 ;(

I was considering doing blast plates - do you think they are worthwhile? If you do, can you share drawings/designs of these? Thanks!

i just use standard push clutch 4.11 5mt's out of Foresters and Legacy's. They run like $200 at local junk yard. I broke one after 10k hard miles, the second one with blast plates after 5k miles. i have about 2k miles on current one but first gear sounds pretty bad. The last two had "my" blast plates. If i had a chance to get a v5/v6 Sti RA 5mt i would. All other 96-05 5mt's are pretty much equal in my opinion. the WRX style Pull type transmissions have the advantage of better clutch options.

Coincidentally I just finished installing this goodness https://legacypic.uk/infopages/transmis ... ty754vbaaa



And now my clutch slips.. Let's hope it is just a bit of contamination that will burn/wear off. I recall last time I pulled and reinstalled the gearbox it also slipped for a short while under heavy load.

EDIT: As I expected, after more city driving the clutch does not slip anymore. Just came back from a half an hour blast on the roads - new box and lsd feels amazing!

Would be interesting to know what causes this slipping phenomenon after pulling the clutch basket off. My bet is on possible dirty fingerprints left on the surfaces.