RomRaider

That is the female and of an old mouse cable I had laying around. That end connects the the ecu. It has the exact number of wires I needed so got rid of the tinysine connector and hot glued mine on there. I hotwired the 555 timer board I made to the tinysine power and unused pins for watchdog. All I have to do is hook that end to ecu and the other end is micro usb to usb of computer, all while still neatly tucked away in the car and never have to remove ECU again.


Wish I could take good pictures like you.
Eventually I'm going to encase the whole thing in non-conductive epoxy cause that hot glue doesn't work so well to keep the plug secure.

Ah, that's a good idea, the mouse jack. And the permanent port for tuning.

Just click the phone camera screen to focus?

I just edited my last post with some questions about the TinySine, especially about the 'L1 ferrite'? Thanks!!

I think polyurethane (like windshield adhesive) or glue like E6000 is non-conductive when 'fully' dried.

Looks like bad USB cable or female connector on PC side. Or any other program trying to get access.
Anyway, now you need working Sh boot... it's very simple circuit, i can't understand why you have such problems with it(( Cheap PL2303 converter works fine.

aaa, you really making this supper complicated. Buy the ft232rl board, buy the parts for watchdog timer located in bottom of this post under my name. viewtopic.php?f=15&t=18163.
you don't need to modify the ft232rl board, just use the RX, TX, ground, and +5V. I used the power and ground from the ft232rl board to power the watchdog board.
You won't need the Arduino, yah maybe it could work, but I'm giving you a method that definitely works.
I use a real Tactrix for tuning. Yah, I got morals.

Boom, got it flashing bootloader!

Thanks Suba Imp, I started ohming out the CN402 leads again last night and all was checking out except pin 12 which is supposed to be ground but wasn't. Looking at the board paths, only pin 11 goes to the nearby test holes. So I unplugged 12 from ground which I had a jumper wire connected to and realized I had taken that from the VAGCOM ground.. I thought USB ground would be enough, but it definitely needs its own connections on the OBD side. Another rookie mistake. Anyways its currently flashing the bootloader, finally!

Thanks again for the parts list for the TinySine rig. It will definitely help others to know they dont need the 'L1 Ferrite' (unless their signal is extra noisy for some reason).

SergArb, thanks for your insistence that it should work. It's very appreciated and it did finally work once I got rid of the cheap Tactrix and rechecked my connections (again). I have another cheap Amazon Tactrix clone coming, just to check if maybe all of them are bad or just the one I got.

EDIT: still not flashing new ROM with non-clone Tactrix. Same error part way through test write at random progress percentage. ..possibly because I didnt put the unmatched Immobilizer chip back on this first ecu..
EDIT2: currently flashing bootloader on 2nd board. It seems to have a stock ROM backup onboard because the first ecu appears as stock after flashing bootloader (the test write said all blocks were the same as my backup stock ROM when comparing). Or it still had the stock ROM on it, that may be more likely.
EDIT3: the 2nd ecu appears to have the modified ROM correctly written to it, but car wont start. There was some relay clicking when first bricked so possibly secondary damage, but dont think likely. Still having test write error.. Decided to try nontest write now that my bootloader flashing is working, failed with error. But tried writing again, and less blocks were different on compare.. so wrote again.. and again.. 7 times, each time more complete.. finally full write.
EDIT4: still doesnt start with 2nd ecu and stock ROM. no DTC codes. feels like immobilizer. going to try swapping immo chip back to 1st ecu with stock ROM.

Photo: I'm glad I took a photo of this before removing to try to read the chip number with the micro focus on phone camera. There is no pin 1 marking on it. The board coating also melts and obscures the letters.

Soooo, does it start? Must use the original immobilizer IC from the original ECU that came with the car. Doesn't matter which ECU you put it on. I do know there is a difference between M/T and A/T ECUs that gave me grief.
Here is something you might be interested in as far as the immobilizer is concerned.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hPKckby54uA.
I did this and it works, I now have three ECUs that I could plug and play. Overkill now that I have the cable permanent to ECU.

Nope, still doesnt start. Have tried everything I can think of. Checked all fuses. No spark at plugs.

I swapped the immob chip back on to the first ecu (will post image of connections) after double checking the ROM against my initial backup read, so should be back to square one. No DTCs. I guess I have to tow it to someone with an SSM.

Photo: chip is soldered back on. Don't think I damaged it or the nearby passives. I used masking tape, then aluminum tape, then foil cover before using heat gun with cone to remove.

Also the immob chips have a two digit number on the back to keep them from getting mixed up.

I always meter the connections afterwards making sure to push more sideways then down cause if it is floating then pushing downward will cause it to act as if connected. Measure from chip to nearest component to make sure trace is still good. If I remember correctly, pins 6 and 7 are not used. Just so you know I was in radio communication security repair in the ARMY 4yrs and continued in hi power broad band amplifiers as a test technician for 10yrs. I know a little..lol. Doesn't mean I can't always learn more. That's why even after swapping Immobilizer I wanted to figure how to program them. Programming is a whole other world. Thank God for RomRaider and it's Subie Nation! Serg Rocks!

Thanks Suba Imp, I always wanted to take electronics but never did. Have some experience, but nothing this small.

So I took your advice to check the leads. They sure looked contacted, but I think this board coating is getting in the way even though I fluxed and added solder to the chip pads. I checked and one wasn't connected. So I resolder it and tried to start. Didn't start. But then I thought the only thing I hadn't checked that I could now is if I somehow mixed up the immob chips before I saw they are numbered on the back. So I put the spare chip back on the 2nd ecu. Checked the leads immediately this time and pin 3 or 4, middle two on the bottom, the one to the left in the photo wasn't connected, even though it sure looks like it. And anyway, long story short, it started! So big thank you buddy!!!

EDIT: Holy crap it works!! I flashed the modified ROM and it starts! Wow, such a long journey..

For the record, the Arduino square wave generator works at 4ms loop. So no need for a watchdog circuit if you have or want an Arduino.

Finally, congratulations

aaaAwesome! Glad I could pay it forward. Serg helped me out when I had issues. Def good to know about the Arduino. I've never used one before and don't even know what I would use it for since I can build my own watchdog timer. Any suggestions on what model to get and what to do with it?

Oh, yeah, I may have linked to it on Amazon above with the code, but it's just a $30 Arduino Uno. It can replace pretty much any IC I think plus more

aaa I don't see the link for the arduino or the code to run it. Could you repost please?
Trying to see if you could do rx,tx and WDT at same time through arduino. That would be neat.

SubaImp, here ya go. It's a generic version of the Arduino Uno:
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01EWOE0UU

It looks like I fried one of the 12V Control inputs on my first ecu, because I used the wrong pinout, the newest Forester I could find was 2005 on xcceleration and it had the same connectors.

Was going to try to double check the generic Tactrix works. I'm getting the same error as on the name brand, so I think it does.

Also, for the record E6000, a basic polyurethane glue is not conductive even when fresh.

Anyone know if there's something I can do about the gas pedal lag between pressing and acceleration. It's always driving me nuts. I might as well try to tune it now if possible. Unless it's some inherent lag with drive by wire.