RomRaider

yeah you need the immobilizer module from the sti car. what you can do is put your ignition back and swap the 8 pin immobilizer chip from your old ecu to the new one.
i was able to swap the 2010 sti gauge cluster chip to the 08 wrx gauge cluster however gas didnt work and speed was off by about 10 mph

you need sti gauge cluster, ecu, immobilizer module and ignition. the immobilizer module under the steering wheel

Hi buddy! i'm new into romraider and i made some big progress in the last few months figuring it out.

I recently got an 2010 wrx with an blow ej255 and i resolved to swap an ej20x.
Swapping it th ej20x was actually pretty easy considering it's potential and we could make it easier to people to swap it.
I swapped with the vf52 turbo from the mid 09 to 2014 wrxs(i think?) that came with the car.
I recently made an basetune for my friend that recently did the same swap into his 2009 wrx.
I will leave my 91 octane basetune( canada moments ) here since its the same topic.

My car is running currently:
IHI VF52 Turbo
EBCS Grimmspeed
COBB HiFlow Cat Downpipe
CNT Exhaust System
2009 STI ECU With Dual AVCS

I have more to come! I have my friend's 2009 basetune with 2 teeth off in the exhaust side and my old 2010 wrx ecu's base tune that was 1 teeth off on exhaust side. The tune was running pretty good for a month before I did the STI Swap thing without any IAM drop or Knock

DISCLAIMER: Use the rom at your own discretion

OK, i test fit the 2012 STi ECU in my 2011 WRX. I pulled the immo chip and cloned the one from my original ecu. Runs great. No other changes,just the scu and chip.

My question is did you swapp the 2 pin ex cam sensors originaly on the ej20x with the 3 pin ones originally on your ej257?

I have 2 pin sensors and assume i need to swapp in some 3 pins to match my ecu.

I was saddened to see no extra pin spots on the engine harness connector, I will be using some of the TGV wires for flex input and Wideband, I guess that leaves a few wires there to use. I was hoping to swapp in some oem wires into what i excpected to be 10 open pins.

Actually, I have 3 pin sensors, problem solved, or rather never was a problem. I didn't install this engine, so I had not seen the sensors till this am. I realized that since it was running and had intake AVCS working so it must of been 3 pin sensors, and they were.

So, if you want to try this or do any ej20y install make sure to get the correct DBW or DBC JDM ej20 depending on what it's going into.

DBW 3 pin sensors
DBC 2 pin sensors

This also negates the need for a merpmodded WRX rom, just use the STI patched rom. That is also great cause this thing is going to want e85. If i ever get some ej25 DAVCS heads we will really have some tq.

Awesome
Hows things going? About a year and a half this car is running drives fine, I over boosted about 8 months ago and caused slight knock on acceleration lol.... so i swapped the rod bearings out and could only get to 3. it was quiet and fine for about 6 months then started to make a slight knock noise on acceleration. power is the same just noisy. its been 3 months since it started again and ive put probably 3k miles with no difference in sound or performance. so i have cash set aside to just buy another motor when this one craps out. just remember not to over boost haha.

this is my latest map, have been driving on this for awhile i took some timing and other settings from other people around the forum and smoothed this map out with it
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nwK9Vf ... drive_link

Driving around always has been sluggish on start.... i thought it was because i didnt have exhaust avcs connected correctly or something. Never cared got used to it. Well i started doing some digging and found out about the throttle plate adjustment in the map. I started to tweak it a bit and now the car actually starts out 10x better, before it was hard to get it going I think that is because the difference between the 2.5l and the 2.0 so i opened up the throttle a bit more and it made a huge difference

https://drive.google.com/file/d/16H7Ew6 ... sp=sharing

Update: almost 2 years since swapping the motor the motor finally got loud enough where i said ok that sounds bad i need to change this, So over the weekend i swapped in a 20k mile ej20x and man.... i think something was wrong with my old motor from the get go. This new one runs amazing not sluggish on start it hits boost way earlier than old motor.

Car is running amazing the tune feels way better than before, I was trying to tune out a mechanical issue.

Hey, did you end up using the same tune you used with the pedal adjustment? or did you update it? Would you mind posting the new one if you did update it? I finally ordered a tactrix cable and will be tuning my car this week. It would be nice to have a basemap to go off of. Thanks

When I try to download this it downloads as a mazda edit file. Any guidance? thanks.

Edit: fixed the problem. Had to delete Mazda edit.

Did you swap the body control module as well? If so, a 2010 STI would've been a hatch so the behavior is different for the trunk output. This can be changed with SSM3, there is a hatch/trunk setting. I put a 2011 STI ECU/BIU/Cluster from a sedan in my Forester and the hatch wouldn't open with the release button, but the key-fob would pop it. Changed the setting and now the key-fob only disarms the alarm/unlocks hatch, and the button on the hatch started working. (Traced out the whole circuit in my swap before I figured this out.) Unfortunately, I couldn't get Tactrix to work with SSM3, so had to buy another $300 scanner, but can now do all the dealer level diag and programming.

-PM