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RomRaider
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merchgod
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Post subject:  Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:30 pm |
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Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:38 am
Posts: 5336
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I'd put my money on a post-MAF intake leak. It must be pretty good one too. I would make one of the intake leak testers and see if you have any. Also, log the A/F correction and drive around without hitting WOT. If your A/F correction is way positive then the ECU is having to dump fuel to maintain 14.7 in closed loop probably due to a leak in the turbo inlet. Of course, you A/F learning looks OK, but that would depend on how long since the last reset and how long since this problem started.
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qoncept
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:33 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:33 pm
Posts: 2079
Location: Palo, IA
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Have you driven it without any problems since getting it all back together? Could be a leak around the new inlet or something..
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IWantMeAJojo
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:34 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:59 pm
Posts: 363
Location: Montgomery, AL
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yeah. i think most of the problem started are doing them "fun runs" in my backyard.
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IWantMeAJojo
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:35 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:59 pm
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Location: Montgomery, AL
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i'll check again tonight where the AF learning is. But yeah, the AF learning seem to be okay. that's a flash from last night - and the map is a good one that crazymikie and I know of.
merchgod wrote: I'd put my money on a post-MAF intake leak. It must be pretty good one too. I would make one of the intake leak testers and see if you have any. Also, log the A/F correction and drive around without hitting WOT. If your A/F correction is way positive then the ECU is having to dump fuel to maintain 14.7 in closed loop probably due to a leak in the turbo inlet. Of course, you A/F learning looks OK, but that would depend on how long since the last reset and how long since this problem started.
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qoncept
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:47 pm |
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Joined: Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:33 pm
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Location: Palo, IA
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Try cleaning your maf/air filter? That was a lot of dust..
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IWantMeAJojo
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 6:48 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:59 pm
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Location: Montgomery, AL
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I did that the other night and for two or three 3rd gear pulls, the car felt great - after that, the car well, went to limp mode again...
qoncept wrote: Try cleaning your maf/air filter? That was a lot of dust..
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Jeramie
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 19, 2006 7:17 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 1:05 am
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Location: PA, USA
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Project_S wrote: i'll check again tonight where the AF learning is. But yeah, the AF learning seem to be okay. that's a flash from last night - and the map is a good one that crazymikie and I know of.
A/F correction #1 would also be helpfull to see what is going on now . .. rather than the trend.
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Jeramie
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IWantMeAJojo
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:17 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:59 pm
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Location: Montgomery, AL
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no luck so far. i thought that the loose 'dogbone' or rear engine mount (missing a nut - the engine was practically loose) would've caused the knocking noise and the engine to go crazy, but it wasn't. 
few things i'll have to do before saturday:
compression test
replace spark plugs
switch coil packs between 3 and 4 cylinders
thoroughly inspect engine bay for any loose object, materials, cables, fittings, etc. that could potentially cause knocking noise
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Jeramie
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:23 pm |
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Location: PA, USA
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Project_S wrote: compression test
replace spark plugs
switch coil packs between 3 and 4 cylinders
thoroughly inspect engine bay for any loose object, materials, cables, fittings, etc. that could potentially cause knocking noise
Sounds like a plan! Good luck 
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Jeramie
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merchgod
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:26 pm |
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Joined: Thu Mar 30, 2006 2:38 am
Posts: 5336
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As far as false knock, look at the transmission dipstick hitting the turbo heatshield and of course, the heatshield itself. If you have a gutted OEM or STi uppipe the welds have tendency to break loose and the uppipe heatshield rattles. False knock has also been seen with lightened crank pullies.
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IWantMeAJojo
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:28 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 2:59 pm
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Location: Montgomery, AL
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hmm...
dipstick - check.
heatshield - check.
uppipe (helix) - check.
no lightened crank pulley - false
merchgod wrote: As far as false knock, look at the transmission dipstick hitting the turbo heatshield and of course, the heatshield itself. If you have a gutted OEM or STi uppipe the welds have tendency to break loose and the uppipe heatshield rattles. False knock has also been seen with lightened crank pullies.
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Jeramie
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:59 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 1:05 am
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Location: PA, USA
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If your like me . .. you'll find some of your missing tools under the hood somewhere 
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Jeramie
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IWantMeAJojo
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 3:05 pm |
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Location: Montgomery, AL
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i found a bolt sitting on top of the engine whenever I was replacing the p/s pump - don't know where it came from 
Jeramie wrote: If your like me . .. you'll find some of your missing tools under the hood somewhere
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Jeramie
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 3:19 pm |
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Location: PA, USA
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Project_S wrote: :lol: i found a bolt sitting on top of the engine whenever I was replacing the p/s pump - don't know where it came from Jeramie wrote: If your like me . .. you'll find some of your missing tools under the hood somewhere LOL
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Jeramie
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chuckdez
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 20, 2006 10:51 pm |
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Joined: Mon Jul 03, 2006 7:29 pm
Posts: 57
Location: Florida
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How does the car perform in open loop?
A fouled a MAF would cause your symptoms, but most likely trigger a rich/lean CEL.
Bad Cat Coverter would do the same.
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