RomRaider

Your MAP sensor reading correctly? Take a log of you driving with the issue happening. Log all the important sensors (IAC valve duty, vehicle speed, gear, MAP, RPM, AF correction, AF direct, Total timing, pulsewidth, IAT)


also with injectors as big as 2200 its very important to have good latency settings. And with E85 I have had issues with sputtering if my ignition timing is too low.


Edit. I just remembered, incorrect latency will cause idle surging too

Also guys, I created a good spreadsheet that will tune cruise,WOT, and also take MAF logs and calculate an accurate map multiplier/offset and generate a MAP.vs.RPM table. Having a map multiplier and offset specific to your setup makes things much easier and actually makes the MAP.vs.RPM table require a lot less tuning. Im going to revise it a bit to make it more user friendly and post it in the main post

I'd be very interested in the spreadsheet if you've got it ready to release.
I could never think of a good way to tune injector latency... do you have any pointers?

i think that might be my problem!!!! you r the best thanks!!!!

Ok, pin B12 is a no go. When enable map switching is checked and enable defrost is not checked = map switch with auto wash, the ecu is using map 2. Pin B12 has no affect at all on map switching.

Map switching works perfect with defrost button. I sent Jason a pm and hopefully we can work around this problem or just focus on a solution using the defrost button. Map switch works great wth defrost button but the defrost timer is a problem.

Looking at the defrost diagram leaves me with some questions.
1) is the ecu getting voltage or sending voltage from A3?
2) is the voltage at A3 wire a full 12volts?
3) is the ecu doing the defrost timer at A3 or is the timer done by the. module?
4) what information is the ecu using pin A3 for? Or is the ecu controling a function with A3?

I think those questions need answering before I start trying to mess with cutting on anymore of my harness wires I'm sure jason will give his input and maybe someone here can too.

I also looked at a pinout diagram for the pectil plug and play replacement ecu for a group n rally car. There are some differences in the pinouts on the group n car and an oem ecu.

I think that the defrost timer has something to do with the climate and how cold the weather is. I am not 100% sure but when its winter over here and it is freezing -22F the defrost stays on like forever. As I said I might be wrong.

edit: Just realized the fact that I have to use anti lag every time I want to defrost the rear window while I am driving winter time.. rpm threshold needs to be adjusted.

I want to say that the relay has a timer built into it. The "timer" is probably just a mechanical switch similar to a flasher that turns off after a certain amount of amperage pops the switch off.
I don't have a wiring diagram to confirm with me ATM, but I'll look later tonight.

The module is the timer.
The relay is ground triggered so A3 is a ground signal to indicate electrical load for idle control.

So what would be the easiest way to use A3? Cut a3 wire and run it though a switch to ground or are you saying that 12 volts is grounded through a3?

He is completely right, a3 is just an computer input to control idle, just like A/C, ECU have an input pin that reads the switch on and an output pin to compressor clutch relay, so ECU will adjust idle when A/C on.... and turn A/C off when full throttle or over certain RPMs

Easiest way to find out its see what do you get in that pin with defroster off, and then on.... i will asume you will see from 0-12 volts with defroster off and then full ground with the switch off!
By looking at the diagram seems like easier way to do it is just cutting a3 and make a switch to ground as you said!!

Good to know... now someone try it.

Most people using this rom will probably have a higher target idle speed than 750rpm so cutting and installing a switch to ground for A3 should not be a problem. Defrost should function normally without switching maps. Unplug the relay first to see if the 12v drops to 0. It could be sourced from the relay +v supply.

My question was, is A3 from the ecu a 12v signal wire. When I was trying to use b12 it has no voltage at all. I didn't have balls enough to run a 12 volt wire to b12. I just ran it switched to ground.

If 3a is a signal wire then running it through switch to ground will work. But if its not a signal then I would need to run a signal wire through switch to it.

That's my question.

Maybe that is why b12 didn't work. Maybe it needs a signal wire ran switched to it? I didn't want to fry anything so I didn't use a signal I just ran straight to ground.

A3 is grounded when the defrost button is on, if you look at the power routing diagram in the service manual you will see that FB-15 goes to the defogger relay coil. The other pin of the relay coil is fed 12v so FB-15(same wire that goes to A3) must be a grounded to function the relay.

I haven't looked into what effect the defrost button has in the logic but ive never noticed a difference with it on or off (even on a stock wrx). But if anybody has issues with it I can simply disable its affect on anything other than the features it is selected to control in the logic.


Im looking into the b12 issue right now, ill PM you back soon Ed